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Eachine Wizard x220 RTF review

We have another reivew on how to fix most of the problems here.

The Eachine Wizard X220 is a rtf quad that comes with everything you need to get you in the air except FPV screen/goggles. It includes the following:

 

1 x prebuilt Eachine Wizard X220 with FPV setup.

1 x 3S 1500mAh battery

1 x Lipo charger (2 and 3 cell balance port charger @ 700 milliamps)

1 x Eachine i6 transmitter, mode 2.

spare bolts and a prop nut tool.

*Props not included

Out of the box you can see some of the extras not normally seen on most mass produce RTF quads. It has motor mount LEDs on all 4 motors and its carbon edges are highlighted in purple to match the 2205 2300kV motors, and motor guards pre installed. The frame looks quite sturdy and capable of handling some impacts, the arms are 4mm and the body is well braced. The Xt60 and VTX antenna both pass through a rubber grommet in the top plate to protect the wiring. The ESCs are Eachine branded 20A Blheli-S 2-4S capable, and the VTX is a 48 channel 5G8 200mW. Wiring looks fairly neat and solder joints are nice an shiny.

 

Total weight without battery is a bit high @ 386 grams. The supplied battery puts it up to 540 grams.

 

It comes with Cleanflight installed out of the box on a F3 board, with angle mode engaged and motor stop on. So the first thing I changed was to engage motors once armed.

Please note, it does not include a buzzer. And motors have CW and CCW threads.

Test flight:

I had high hopes for this beginners craft, despite it being a little porky. It appears reasonably well assembled and has some aesthetic qualities in a package that is geared towards the beginner/intermediate pilot who may be on a budget. I was disappointed to find out that the included 3S 1500mAh @ 25C was poorly selected for this craft. With a set of 3 bladed cyclones the quad could barely hover let alone ascend with any speed. Hovering was at over 60% on the throttle and full throttle resulted in a slow, gradual climb more suited to a aerial photography drone. I went back into Cleanflight to double check the Tx was calibrated correctly, and sure enough it was hitting 2000 on the throttle channel. So out of the box with the battery provided I would say its nearly unflyable, with 5 inch three blade props anyway. Perhaps it would be marginally better with a tradition prop, but I doubt it.

 

 

 

 

Eachine Falcon 210 Review – Guide to How It Should Of been Setup With Cleanflight

As per our other guides, I usually take and test the Eachines new quads before I commit to buying them in bulk and recommending them to customers.

In some circumstances we buy them anyway and sell them as “SUPER UPGRADED” versions with the fixes complete as most people who are buying these quads are relatively new to the hobby and have no idea what they are doing.

You may be interested in my other reviews

Eachine Falcon 180 RTF Naze32
Eachine Racer 250
Eachine Blade 185 Guide
Eachine Falcon 250 STD

IMG_20160906_234435IMG_20160906_234424IMG_20160906_223115

Is this ready to fly? NOPE!
If you are a beginner and you can’t follow the guide below, don’t buy this quad! If you are up the challenge of change settings below, you can then fly on Angle or Horizon Mode (auto stabilise) and learn to fly.

Issues

  1. i6 Eachine transmitter has locked Bootloader by Default – Can’t change any settings
  2. AUX 1 is set to Knob VRA and it does nothing.
  3. AUX 2 is set to Knob VRB – AUX 2 Does Not Work!
  4. Aerials aren’t mounted properly
  5. OSD on same UART port – TX/RX pins need to be removed if you want to access cleanflight.
  6. If you turn off dip switch 4 to 0 FC is no longer powered as it runs on the same 5/12v rail.
  7. Comes with old Cleanflight 1.12 and nothing is setup at all
  8. No Flight Modes set, only Acro Mode!
  9. No Buzzer by default – you can add one if required!

Some other improvements they could make

  • Use all CW caps on motors, not have them different
  • Use proper locknuts for the motors
  • Improve battery strap, it is not very strong at all.
  • Change to PPM/SBUS receiver

The Solutions

  1. To Change the Eaching i6 Transmitter settings, Hold the yaw trim to the right, the roll trim to the left and turn on the transmitter. You can then enter settings by holding down ok on the Transmitter
  2. Part of solution 3
  3. Now that you can enter the setup of i6, goto Functions Setup, Aux Channels, then change Chanel 5 to SwB and Channel 6 to Swc. Hold down Cancel to SAVE. Switches for modes and settings are way better than turning Knobs!
    On our AUX 2 We could not get it to work with this default setup from Eachine.
    IMG_20160605_121710IMG_20160605_121740IMG_20160605_122431
  4. Get some Cable ties and heat shrink and mount the aerials facing upwards so there is no chance props can hit them. In default position they will get chopped by props straight away!
    Another method is just to place aerials inside the frame, however range won’t be as far.
    IMG_20160906_224703 IMG_20160906_224714
  5. On theSP RACING F3 version it seems the OSD is running on the same UART port as the FC. If you want to do step 7 and 8, it is required to disconnect it as per pictures.
    IMG_20160906_222625 IMG_20160906_222544
  6. I noticed that if you turn dip switch 4 off, it cuts all power to the naze32, so be sure not to do this if you are turning off your lights!
  7. see step 8.
  8. This last stage is quite a bit of work, but hang in there. We are going to upgrade to cleangflight 1.13 and then set it up correctly and configure the switches on your radio.

    Upgrade Eachine Falcon 210 Cleanflight

  1. Remove Props from Quad.
  2. Install the Cleanflight Configurator from the Chrome Web Store.
  3. Download Latest cleanflight or Betaflight _NAZE.hex from release pages.
    For difference on Cleanflight vs Betaflight view this article.
  4.  In Cleanflight Configuration, make sure you disconnect from your quad, then click the firmware flasher tab.
    2016-06-05 16_27_18-Cleanflight - Configurator
  5. Click Load Firmware [Local]
  6. Select file you downloaded from Step 3.
  7. Select These options
    -Full chip erase.-Manual baud rate 256000.
  8. Click Flash Firmware
  9. You are now on Cleanflight/Betaflight!
  10. Click Connect at the top right and if successful you should see your quad like this.
    MAKE SURE ORIENTATION IS CORRECT. I CHANGED MY YAW to -90 for SP RACING F3
    2016-06-05 16_30_37-Cleanflight - Configurator
  11. You can check what version the chip is running by expanding the log
    2016-06-05 16_30_58-
    2016-06-05 16_31_19-Cleanflight - Configurator
  12. Place Quad on flat surface and under setup, click calibrate accelerometer.
  13. Go to Configration tab
    Change minimum throttle to 1000
    Change Maximum throttle to 2000
    You can also turn blackbox off here if you do not require it, it will give the CPU less work if so.
    Save and reboot
    Your screen should look like this
    2016-08-31 23_09_54-Cleanflight - Configurator
  14. Now we need to calibrate ESC,  go to the motor tab. remember, you should have removed props at the start, if you didn’t, DO THIS NOW.
    Unplug battery
    Click “I Understand the risks …….”
    Slide Master to MAX
    Plug in battery, wait till you have heard all different types of beeps.
    Slide Master to MIN
    ESC Calibration is now complete!
    Unplug battery, then plug in again. (power cycle it)
    Click on Master slide and slowing push up with your arrow until all motors come on (mine was 1097)
    If they come on at very different throttle inputs, redo your calibration!
  15. Now go back to the Configuration tab
    Change minimum throttle to your number. eg. 1097
    Change Maximum throttle to 1900
    Save and reboot
  16. Next go to the Failsafe tab
    Check you are happy with what the failsafe is. I like it to slowly land, others like it to drop. There is pros and cons to both. Research what you want 🙂
  17. Next go to PID Tuning
    Change roll rate to 0.80
    Change pitch rate to 0.80
    Change YAW rate to 0.40
    TPA should be 0.20
    TPA breakpoint should be 1650
    You can up these rates more if you like. I personally fly on 0.9 for all three.
  18. Now go to receiver tab, and check all your transmitter channels are correct.
  19.  Since we changed the knobs to switches for AUX 1 , we can now move on to next section and setup the switches.
  20. Go to The Modes Tab
    FYI, No mode selected = ACRO+ / Rate mode by default.
    Altitude mode = Angle Mode
    Rattitude  mode = Horizon ModeIn the below screenshot I have setup the following for my switches.SWC 1 = Angle
    SWC 2 = ACRO/RATE
    SWC 3 = Horizon
    2016-08-31 23_17_56-Cleanflight - Configurator
    If you are a more advanced Pilot, you may want to change SWB 2 to Airmode and still use the Yaw right, Yaw left to arm and disarm.
  21. Give it a test flight! Make sure you are open space in case you missed a step and it crashes.

Eachine Falcon 250 Pro Review – Guide to How It Should Of been Setup With Cleanflight

As per our other guides, I usually take and test the Eachines new quads before I commit to buying them in bulk and recommending them to customers.

In some circumstances we buy them anyway and sell them as “SUPER UPGRADED” versions with the fixes complete as most people who are buying these quads are relatively new to the hobby and have no idea what they are doing.

You may be interested in my other reviews

Eachine Falcon 180 RTF Naze32
Eachine Racer 250
Eachine Blade 185 Guide
Eachine Falcon 250 STD

IMG_20160831_223650 IMG_20160831_222936 

Is this ready to fly? NOPE!
If you are a beginner and you can’t follow the guide below, don’t buy this quad! If you are up the the challenge of change settings below, you can then fly on Angle or Horizon Mode (auto stabalise) and learn to fly.

Issues

  1. i6 Eachine transmitter has locked Bootloader by Default – Can’t change any settings
  2. AUX 1 is set to Knob VRA and it does nothing.
  3. AUX 2 is set to Knob VRB
  4. Aerials aren’t mounted properly
  5. OSD on same UART port – TX/RX pins need to be removed if you want to access cleanflight. (This was on NAZE board, may be different on sp racing F3)
  6. If you turn off dip switch 4 to 0 FC is no longer powered as it runs on the same 5/12v rail.
  7. Comes with old Cleanflight 1.12 and nothing is setup at all
  8. No Flight Modes set, only Acro Mode!
  9. No Buzzer by default – you can add one if required!

Some other improvements they could make

  • Use all CW caps on motors, not have them different
  • Use proper locknuts for the motors
  • Improve battery strap, it is not very strong at all.
  • Change to PPM/SBUS receiver

The Solutions

  1. To Change the Eaching i6 Transmitter settings, Hold the yaw trim to the right, the roll trim to the left and turn on the transmitter. You can then enter settings by holding down ok on the Transmitter
  2. Part of solution 3
  3. Now that you can enter the setup of i6, goto Functions Setup, Aux Channels, then change Chanel 5 to SwB and Channel 6 to Swc. Hold down Cancel to SAVE. Switches for modes and settings are way better than turning Knobs!
    IMG_20160605_121710IMG_20160605_121740IMG_20160605_122431
  4. Get some Cable ties and heat shirnk and mount the aerials facing upwards so there is no chance props can hit them. In default position they will get chopped by props straight away!
    Another method is just to place aerials inside the frame, however range won’t be as far.
    IMG_20160831_225837 IMG_20160831_225858
  5. On the NAZE version it seems the OSD is running on the same UART port as the FC. If you want to do step 7 and 8, it is required to disconnect it as per pictures.
    IMG_20160831_223220 IMG_20160831_222951
  6. I noticed that if you turn dip switch 4 off, it cuts all power to the naze32, so be sure not to do this if you are turning off your lights!
  7. see step 8.
  8. This last stage is quite a bit of work, but hang in there. We are going to upgrade to cleangflight 1.13 and then set it up correctly and configure the switches on your radio.

    Upgrade Eachine Falcon 250 Pro Cleanflight

  1. Remove Props from Quad.
  2. Install the Cleanflight Configurator from the Chrome Web Store.
  3. Download Latest cleanflight or Betaflight _NAZE.hex from release pages.
    For difference on Cleanflight vs Betaflight view this article.
  4.  In Cleanflight Configuration, make sure you disconnect from your quad, then click the firmware flasher tab.
    2016-06-05 16_27_18-Cleanflight - Configurator
  5. Click Load Firmware [Local]
  6. Select file you downloaded from Step 3.
  7. Select These options as per screenshot
    2016-06-05 16_29_02-Cleanflight - Configurator
  8. Click Flash Firmware
  9. You are now on Cleanflight/Betaflight!
  10. Click Connect at the top right and if successful you should see your quad like this
    2016-06-05 16_30_37-Cleanflight - Configurator
  11. You can check what version the chip is running by expanding the log
    2016-06-05 16_30_58-
    2016-06-05 16_31_19-Cleanflight - Configurator
  12. Place Quad on flat surface and under setup, click calibrate accelerometer.
  13. Go to Configration tab
    Change minimum throttle to 1000
    Change Maximum throttle to 2000
    You can also turn blackbox off here if you do not require it, it will give the CPU less work if so.
    Save and reboot
    Your screen should look like this
    2016-08-31 23_09_54-Cleanflight - Configurator
  14. Now we need to calibrate ESC,  go to the motor tab. remember, you should have removed props at the start, if you didn’t, DO THIS NOW.
    Unplug battery
    Click “I Understand the risks …….”
    Slide Master to MAX
    Plug in battery, wait till you have heard all different types of beeps.
    Slide Master to MIN
    ESC Calibration is now complete!
    Unplug battery, then plug in again. (power cycle it)
    Click on Master slide and slowing push up with your arrow until all motors come on (mine was 1097)
    If they come on at very different throttle inputs, redo your calibration!
  15. Now go back to the Configuration tab
    Change minimum throttle to your number. eg. 1097
    Change Maximum throttle to 1900
    Save and reboot
  16. Next go to the Failsafe tab
    Check you are happy with what the failsafe is. I like it to slowly land, others like it to drop. There is pros and cons to both. Research what you want 🙂
  17. Next go to PID Tuning
    Change roll rate to 0.80
    Change pitch rate to 0.80
    Change YAW rate to 0.40
    TPA should be 0.20
    TPA breakpoint should be 1650
    You can up these rates more if you like. I personally fly on 0.9 for all three.
  18. Now go to receiver tab, and check all your transmitter channels are correct.
  19.  Since we changed the knobs to switches for AUX 1 and AUX 2, we can now move on to next section and setup the switches.
  20. Go to The Modes Tab
    FYI, No mode selected = ACRO+ / Rate mode by default.
    Altitude mode = Angle Mode
    Rattitude  mode = Horizon ModeIn the below screenshot I have setup the following for my switches.
    SWB 1 = Nothing
    SWB 2 = Quad ArmedSWC 1 = Angle
    SWC 2 = ACRO/RATE
    SWC 3 = Horizon
    2016-08-31 23_17_56-Cleanflight - Configurator
    If you are a more advanced Pilot, you may want to change SWB 2 to Airmode and still use the Yaw right, Yaw left to arm and disarm.
  21. Give it a test flight! Make sure you are open space in case you missed a step and it crashes.

Control Eachine H8 Mini With Taranis X9D Plus

Download Eachine H8 Mini EEPE here

Download Eachine CX10 EEPE here

The guide below is for the H8 Mini, however CX10 is pretty much the same.

Upload H8 Mini EEPE To Your Taranis

  1. Make sure you have Taranis Open TX Companion Installed
  2. You may also need the driver “ST Virtual COM port driver V1.3.1 for Taranis CLI” from that same link above (at the bottom of the page)
  3. Launch Open TX Compansion
  4. Click Read Models & Settings From Radio
    2016-06-07 18_41_50-OpenTX Companion 2.1.7 - Radio_ FrSky Taranis Plus - Profile_ My Radio
  5.  Now you should see a window with your models.
  6. Go back to Open TX Companion and go to file—> open and select the eepe file you downloaded at the top of this guide.
    2016-06-07 18_58_11-OpenTX Companion 2.1.7 - Radio_ FrSky Taranis Plus - Profile_ My Radio
  7. You should now have another window to the right with the model.
    2016-06-07 22_53_23-OpenTX Companion 2.1.7 - Radio_ FrSky Taranis Plus - Profile_ My Radio
  8. Simply drag it across to your models in a free slot.
  9. When you are done, close our models and go to the menu at top —> Read / Write —> “Write settings and models to Radio”
  10. 2016-06-07 18_59_41-OpenTX Companion 2.1.7 - Radio_ FrSky Taranis Plus - Profile_ My Radio

Now you just need to load the NRF24 multipro Multi Protocol TX Adapter Module in the back of your taranis
IMG_20160822_192434

Select the Model and then bind to your H8mini!

Switches and what they do

SE – Bind/Rebind Quad
SH – Flip
SD – 40% , 70%, 100% power level
SF – Head

Happy Days!

IMG_20160822_202820

 

F3 OSD Configuration From Phaser FPV

This board gives you the ability to mount the usb port externally where ever you want!

First of all, you can simply flash Cleanflight / Betaflight by plugging it into the label F3 like so

IMG_20160812_170735

The board comes with Cleanflight 1.10 as standard.

To flash another version or betaflight choose options below.

2016-08-12 17_34_10-Cleanflight - Configurator

Now to setup your OSD, change the port to label OSD as below.
IMG_20160812_165820IMG_20160812_165830

The F3 board is preloaded with MWOSD.

Download MWOSD 1.6 (Version we used) click connect and setup as required.

Everything else is the same as a standard F3 Chip.

If you want to upgrade MWOSD or put other OSD software on it you can follow our other guide here

How to Flash MWOD and setup OSD and Configure

Here is a wiring schematic for SBUS receiver and telemetry connections:

sp3 v2 hookup

 

Dont forget to turn on Serial connection in Cleanflight on Uart 2 and set telemetry to smart port in Uart 3.

If you require any other information, you may try this manual, however it is the DELUXE board, so some features may be different.

 

 

 

 

 

How to Flash MWOD and setup OSD and Configure

20160715_160019

 

This guide is designed to walk you through flashing MWOSD software to any OSD board, or update to a newer version.

There are many ways of configuring your inbuilt OSD and many different variations of the software you can use. It is compatible with Multiwii software intended for Minim OSD, which comes as a standalone chip. With it integrated into the flight controller you are able to minimise your wiring and layout, and monitor all sorts of details from your craft. Specific versions allow for direct links to Cleanflight, using data from the FC itself to minimise connections. It also allows for customising the look of your OSD including layout, features and fonts used for display.

This tutorial will cover the reflashing and setup of the OSD part of the FC. The FC itself is setup as normal. Note that the OSD is not configurable via USB connector. This is reserved for FC configuration. There is also a switch on the FC itself, this switch must be off if one wishes to configure the FC via USB as the USB and OSD share the same UART port. If you have unusual sluggish behaviour or inability to connect via PC the chances are the switch is on and must be switched off. Inversely, if you are ready for flight but have no video feed you may have forgotten to switch the OSD back on after configuring via Cleanflight/Betaflight/Raceflight, assuming your setup is correct.

For simplicity we will only look at a few vital features here. You can experiment at your leisure with some of the more advanced ones.

Components needed:

F1/F3 + OSD FC

FTDI adaptor and cable for connection to PC

Pin headers

Arduino and MWOSD software.

 

Your first step is to find the correct perforations on your flight controller that allow you to customise your OSD. They are marked:

DTR/Tx/Rx/5V/GND/GND

 

They can be seen on the F1 below the USB connector, and near the switch on the F3. The F3s ports are marked on the underside, and it would seem the Tx/Rx markings are reversed, depending on your perspective of things. Regardless, if you hook up Tx/Rx wrong you should get sync issues and not be able to flash it correctly, so if you are having issues look at this first.

 

20160715_160019                 20160715_160019

 

These pins are also mirrored on the FTDI adaptor, which can come in many different forms. Here is the one Ill be using. Its important to check that it is configured for 5v operation if you intend to power the OSD off the FTDI during the programming process. This one has a switch for 3.3v or 5v near the USB port.

20160715_160019

You will also see a pin labeled CTS, it is not needed in this instance. The pins should line up for direct connect, minus this CTS, so you can use single/double dupont connectors (servo) to match each pin to its counterpart on the FC. If you dont want to solder pins into the FC you can use a row of header pins and just hold them in place on the FC for the next few steps. If you ever need to reflash or reconfigure you will need them again, so keep a set aside for this purpose.

SOFTWARE:

Download and install Arduino and familiarise yourself with the basics.

Download  Scarab OSD. Match the pins up via your temporary wiring harness.

20160720_114838

Once connected you need to open the Arduino file found inside the Scarab OSD folder called MW_OSD and check some of the settings on the Config.H tab.

config h

There is alot of parameters you can change here but everything should be set how we need it by default. Double check #define CLEANFLIGHT is chosen.

Under the Tools/Board menu in Arduino check that Arduin pro or Pro mini 5v/16 MHz ATmega328 is selected and that you are on the right port.

Now hit upload in the top left hand corner of arduino. It should start compiling and then upload. If you have any errors check that your ports are correct and that TX/RX is connected the right way.

 

Once this is complete you can close down arduino and open up MW_OSD_GUI. You should see your available COM port, select it and hit READ.

mwosd

Select your FONT first and write it to the board. Once this is done you can pick and adjust all your display options. Make sure you select USE FC MAIN VOLTAGE for voltage display, this will use the voltage reading from Cleanflight, assuming you have connected Vbatt.

Make sure you have written any changes and thats it. Your OSD is now ready to use.

 

 

 

 

 

 

FuriousFPV Kombini Flight Controller Review

Kombini Flight Controller is a FC and PDB all in one. I was given a sample to review and below will be my build log and initial flight experience.

TL;DR This is am amazing FC, a little fiddly to wire together, but the space saving offered by this means even the the smallest of frames are easy to build.

Unlike any other current brushed Flight Controller, the Komobin is the first to bring to market a FC + PDB all in one and can handle 150A of current @ 5s (18.5V). Based on the very latest F3 chip processor this FC can be loaded with CleanFlight or BetaFlight.

13669750_10157097415525532_260280609578252776_n

Features & Capabilities:

  • Latest Generation F3 Processor Chip
  • Simplicity Defined with Built In PDB
  • Massive 150A PDB Current Protection
  • 5S 18.5V Ready
  • Ultra Compact Design for Ease of Installation
  • Gold Plated Pads for the Very Best Connectivity
  • Heavy Duty 2A BEC @ 5V Output
  • Firmware Perfection via CleanFlight & BetaFlight
  • BLHeli Pass Through Setup
  • Compact Sizing w/ 30.5mm x 30.5mm Mounting Holes
  • Sbus Ready w/ Built In Inverter
  • Included Spektrum Satellite Port
  • FrSky Telemetry, Ready & Waiting
  • Full USB Support
  • Built In Buzzer
  • Mounting Simplicity via 3mm Screws

The initial concept of a PDB+FC all in one was great to me, until I head the FC in my hand and realised how precise my soldering will have to be. I was lucky enough to be able to use Phasers as my workshop to put this into an existing quad. First up was to add the XT60 power cord, which I needed to shave down a little so it would fit on the pads without shorting.

13769497_10157097415555532_6622002678897006477_n

Pro Tip: ALWAYS use a multimeter to ensure you have not bridged your positive and earth BEFORE plugging in a Lipo

Once the power cord was added and tested I soldered up the RX, FrSky XSR w/ CPPM and SPort (for Telemetry). You can refer to the wiring diagram further below, please note that in order to get Telemetry working you will need to bridge the RX and TX of UART2 then connect your SPORT to either as they are bridged.

13690831_10157097415615532_2983435981215470375_n

Once the RX was added and tested all that was needed was to solder the ESC’s to the board, only the signal wire is required as the FC shares earth from the ESC power cords. I decided to solder all 4 ESC signal wire earth together in case I needed them for a future build. No need for VBAT or power for the FC as it has its own built in BEC to provide 5A

13754266_10157097415735532_3025860003091813467_n

The only issue I had with the Kombini was the built in Buzzer didn’t work for me, RCGroups forum is also a little confused as the FC description has both “Built in Buzzer” and “Buzzer Port”. All I know is once I connected a external buzzer to the Buzzer port, it works perfect.

13707661_10157097415855532_9213888632370907186_n

Here is the maiden DVR, note that there was 40KM/h winds on the day:

And here is the DVR from a NSW Multi-Rotor Club Fun Fly day:

Full Wiring Diagram:

KOMBINI_QUICKSTART_GUIDE

Written by KaosFPV

The Perfect Settings For HS1177 and HS1190 Foxeer FPV Cameras

We searched long and hard and tried many video tutorials on good camera settings. These are the best we have found!
Please do it in the order we have set, as some options won’t appear unless you do it in correct order.

REMEMBER TO HIT RETURN AT THE END TO SAVE SETTINGS – POWER OFF THEN POWER ON AND CHECK SETTINGS WERE SAVED!

Before you do anything, perform a factory reset.

Lens: Manual

White bal: Manual
– Color Temp: Manual
– Blue: 45
– Red: 55

Day&night: Color

##Image Adj

Lens Shad: off

2DNR: off

Contrast: 150

Sharpness: 30

##### Display: LCD

Gamma: .45

PED Level: 35

Color Gain: 175

##Exposure

Shutter: Auto

Brightness: 42

AGC: Mid

DWDR: On

#### DWDR

Level: 63

 

 

REMEMBER TO HIT RETURN AT THE END TO SAVE SETTINGS – POWER OFF THEN POWER ON AND CHECK SETTINGS WERE SAVED!

Tiny Whoop Inductrix Taranis Orange RX Module 1.2 Setup

Matthew Evans did a great job with working out how to setup the Tiny Whoop with Orange Module 1.2

BFg9ZRv

This page serves to be a complete guide with screenshots with every page on Taranis.

If you are having troubles the key points is this:

  • Set Orange Module so that it flashing ONCE.
  • If no throttle, power cycle quad and lift throttle up then down then up again and then repeat if nothing happens.
  • If still not having any luck, you may be missing a setting. Download my EEPE and load it here.

Complete Guide – Tiny Whoop Taranis Orange Module 1.2 Setup

  1. Screen 2/12 – Set a name, then turn internal RF OFF, external RF to PPM and ch1-12 IMG_20160703_121645
  2. Page 5/12 – The key is to setting SH to ch 5 so you cna flick the switch to switch between self level and ACRO mode.
    IMG_20160703_121659
  3. Page 6/12 – Set as per screenshot
    IMG_20160703_123654
  4. Page 7/12 – Set as per screenshot
    IMG_20160703_121710
  5. Now if you have done all the above, your orange module like below should be turned on. Push the Bind button three times (slowly) and it should change mode and blink once every 1 second.
    Once its blinking in the correct mode, turn off your Taranis, hold the bind button, and turn on taranis and keep holding bind until the quads lights stop flashing. You are now bound!If no throttle, power cycle quad and lift throttle up then down then up again and then repeat if nothing happens.

    IMG_20160703_121739