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Emax F1 / F3 OSD Flight Controller OSD/Video Wiring Diagram

Here is a diagram of the Emax F1 + OSD FC video hookup. Please note that while the F3 is different the hookup is the same, just check you have the right tabs on the underside of the board.

All the topside connections remain the same.

*Please note, in most cases the ground connections can be omitted, so only Video in and Out are used. If you have any problems you may need to connect them.

osd hookup

The Perfect Settings For HS1177 and HS1190 Foxeer FPV Cameras

PLEASE NOTE. Further updates are available here.


We searched long and hard and tried many video tutorials on good camera settings. These are the best we have found!
Please do it in the order we have set, as some options won’t appear unless you do it in correct order.


Before you do anything, perform a factory reset.

Lens: Manual

White bal: Manual
– Color Temp: Manual
– Blue: 45
– Red: 55

Day&night: Color

##Image Adj

Lens Shad: off

2DNR: off

Contrast: 150

Sharpness: 30

##### Display: LCD

Gamma: .45

PED Level: 35

Color Gain: 175


Shutter: Auto

Brightness: 42

AGC: Mid


#### DWDR

Level: 63




Tiny Whoop Inductrix Taranis Orange RX Module 1.2 Setup

Matthew Evans did a great job with working out how to setup the Tiny Whoop with Orange Module 1.2


This page serves to be a complete guide with screenshots with every page on Taranis.

If you are having troubles the key points is this:

  • Set Orange Module so that it flashing ONCE.
  • If no throttle, power cycle quad and lift throttle up then down then up again and then repeat if nothing happens.
  • If still not having any luck, you may be missing a setting. Download my EEPE and load it here.

Complete Guide – Tiny Whoop Taranis Orange Module 1.2 Setup

  1. Screen 2/12 – Set a name, then turn internal RF OFF, external RF to PPM and ch1-12 IMG_20160703_121645
  2. Page 5/12 – The key is to setting SH to ch 5 so you cna flick the switch to switch between self level and ACRO mode.
  3. Page 6/12 – Set as per screenshot
  4. Page 7/12 – Set as per screenshot
  5. Now if you have done all the above, your orange module like below should be turned on. Push the Bind button three times (slowly) and it should change mode and blink once every 1 second.
    Once its blinking in the correct mode, turn off your Taranis, hold the bind button, and turn on taranis and keep holding bind until the quads lights stop flashing. You are now bound!If no throttle, power cycle quad and lift throttle up then down then up again and then repeat if nothing happens.


BOLTRC Kraken 6 Inch build log

BoltRC Kraken build (K5/K6)

A challenging build due to the need to fit all components into a small area. Not for beginners. Direct soldering to FC and most likely some modifications needed to other parts. Please note there are pictures below from multiple builds where different methods were used. They are not sequential and parts and layout differ from picture to picture.


The first decision you will need to may is how to mount and route your motor/ESC wires. There is a few possibilities here with each method having pros and cons.

In the picture below you can see the motor is mounted with the ESC wires wrapped around the arm, with the ESC mounted underneath the arm. This can protect the ESC from prop strikes, but also allows for the easy routing of power wires to the PDB, away from the edges of the Lexan shell. If you choose to mount your ESC on top, be sure to allow adequate clearance of the power wires to reach the PDB without rubbing against the shell.


An alternative method is to mount the motor “backwards” with the wires pointing away from the center. Route the motor wires down and underneath to the ESC, making sure to insulate the parts that come into contact with the edges of the frame with shrink wrap or nylon braid.




From here you need to mount your ESC making sure you have enough room to clear the bolt holes for the shell and FC stack. Route your ESC power wires up to the PDB, place your shell ontop before you solder to make sure you have enough clearance. You dont have to use the BoltRC PDB but it does strengthen the frame a little more as well as offer some more realestate for mounting extras. Make sure you mount the negative side down onto the frame.


Please note, the provided regulator on the PDB is for 8v. If your FC or other components require less you will have to add further regulators.

Once your PDB is mounted its time to layout your FC stack. I recommend doing a mock up of this to check that everything you have will fit. To be extra thorough mount your camera with the supplied bracket inside the shell and slip the shell over the top to check clearances.


Consider mounting your strap at this stage then placing your FC over the top. Space your FC with the included spacers so it does not come into contact with the PDB. Be as minimal as possible.


Keep all your leads to the FC as short as possible.


If you want to cut a slot in your shell so that the FC port is accessible make sure to orientate your FC accordingly.



Here you can see some modifications being done to the TBS unify VTX. Ive added a small carbon plate to the top of the FC stack, available from Phaser for a few dollars. It allows for the mounting of the VTX/RX and 5v reg if required.  The RX is mounted on the underside of the Carbon plate with the VTX and reg on the topside. Alternatively you can mount some of your hardware to the shell itself, make sure you make it easy to disconnect if you do. Check clearance on your VTX antenna, the TBS pigtail will need to be modified to clear the FC stack. Or you may chose to replace it with a 90 degree pigtail.


Once you have all your clearances sorted out you can begin porting the shell for your camera. Use a soldering iron to get started and clean the edges up carefully with a file or dremel. Careful, the lexan marks easily and can crack if you are rough.





Foxeer Arrow CCD with OSD voltage Setup Wiring Diagram

Just a quick post for those who may be trying to get the OSD voltage on the Foxeer Arrow CCD camera.

You can run power straight from the battery to the camera (5-22v) and it will display the voltage but the manual suggests a regulated voltage for the input, especially if you have active braking enabled. So running regulated voltage to the camera is recommended, but now our OSD voltage will be a constant voltage and not reflective of the sources voltage.

To get around this you need to remove the back cover, revealing the circuit board. Just below the positive terminal of the plug you will see two copper tabs/perforations, marked + and –


Run two tiny wires from these tabs through the hole on the front of the case and route them to your source voltage on the PDB. When these wires are connected it will display voltage from here by default.


Happy voltage monitoring.

How To Charge The Fatshark Battery 7.4v 1600mAh Properly

You may notice that the Fatshark battery has DO NOT BALANCE CHARGE on the balance Lead.

This is because the battery has its own balance circuit so it does not need balance charging.


You may get an error that says “Balance Connect Error”
Some chargers still need the balance lead connected to the charger even though it’s not balance charging.

The correct way to charge is LIPO charge and 1C would be 1.6amps like below picture



If you have an advanced charger, it may also check the resistance. The battery will show high resistance, this is normal because of the balance circuit and you may ignore it.

Sigan 250 Build Log

1. Components

Total Cost – $629.70 + $6 hours labour + Consumables.

2. Tips On Building

The Sigan drone is an award-winning compact racer with a very specific design requiring a tight and compact assembly of the electronics. It should not be attempted for those who are new or inexperienced in the craft. The build pics below are from the 210 and 250 class available from Phaser computers.

If you decide to use different components than those listed above please check to see if they will fit. The space between the top and bottom plates is around 10mm. Since all components bar the camera, buzzer and xt60 are intended to fit in this space anything higher than 10mm is essentially a problem.


Once you have checked all your parts are there I recommend inserting your standoffs first and test fitting your escs. 20 amp esc’s are recommended for the 210 build, though the right 30 ampers can fit if you are careful. The 210 seen below has 30 amp DYS escs with solder tabs. Take special care when soldering the middle motor lead in particular, it will need to be slightly longer to accommodate wrapping around the body post. Test fit your 3D printed side skirt/bumper too, if your esc doesn’t fit inside you may as well stop now until you solve that. Everything should lay as flat as possible, motor leads will need to be short and soldered directly to the esc, especially in the case of the 210.


Mount your flight controller next. -90 or +90 so you can access the usb port. You may choose to use some longer bolts for the pdb and FC. There are holes on the top deck that line up with the pdbs bolts and I chose to lengthen these bolts to stiffen the pdb and center of the drone. When you solder in your xt60 connector remember to trim the bottom tabs off flush so they dont rub against the carbon fiber and cause a direct short. This will most likely end very badly if you aren’t careful.


Route all your power cabling down either side of the craft to the PDB, leaving enough room for the 3d printed skirts to fit and allowing access to the FC usb hub. Solder all connections directly to the FC where possible. Use the 5v regulator to power your FC and any other components like the VTX in this case.

3. Final Build Pictures